Atelier CalibreHorlogers · La Combe-Noire

Built to betaken apart.

Cal. AC-39 · running · filmed at ¼ speed 21,600 vph · assembled Scroll to disassemble
01 — Movement sheet

One barrel, five wheels, three hertz.

The AC-39 is laid out so the whole going train reads from the front: barrel at two o'clock, balance at eight, small seconds riding directly on the fourth wheel. The mainplate is ruthenium-dark so the gold does the talking.

Calibre
AC-39, manual winding
Diameter × height
29.2 mm × 5.1 mm
Frequency
21,600 vph · 3 Hz
Power reserve
72 hours, single barrel
Going train
84 : 12 · 80 : 10 · 75 : 10 · 84 : 7
Jewels
17 rubies, 6 in gold chatons
Case
316L steel, 40 mm, sapphire both sides
02 — Atelier

Four people. One room. No supplier finishing.

Step 01 · 11 days

Cut

Bridges and plate are wire-eroded from German silver in-house, then pierced by hand. Wheels are cut one tooth at a time on a 1962 Mikron hobbing bench.

Step 02 · 19 days

Finish

Every inward angle is bevelled with a file and gentian wood. Côtes on the bridges, perlage on the plate, black polish on all 31 screw heads.

Step 03 · 6 weeks

Regulate

Each movement is cased, run for six weeks in six positions and adjusted to within −1 / +3 seconds a day before it is allowed to leave.

03 — Commission

Twenty-five pieces a year. Seven remain for 2027.

A reservation holds your number with a 10 % deposit, refundable until cutting begins. You are invited to the bench twice: once to choose the finish, once to wind it for the first time.

Request an allocation
18/25
Allocated for 2027 · CHF 48,500